Food recommendations at the bottom ;)
Japan is famous for its omotenashi, its hospitality and service culture.
When this comes to accommodation, however, it shows itself to be a country of customs and rules.
At ryokan, Japanese traditional inns, you will often arrive to find no futon laid out — it’ll be put out later during your dinner, which is served at one of two times. No, the menu can’t be customised, and, yes, breakfast really is offered at 6.30am or 7am whether you like it or not.
Those of us in the travel business always joke that Japan’s omotenashi is serving guests hospitality and telling them how they should enjoy it. Because they shall enjoy it.
So it’s really refreshing to see some new accommodation emerging that understands how to balance overseas guests’ desires for a traditional Japan experience with their need for comfort and customs that aligns with hospitality expectations in the US or Europe, for example.
Nazuna Kyoto Tsubaki St. does this excellently.
I was invited to check it out last month as press, but it’s somewhere I would 100% recommend personally or to any clients visiting Kyoto.
Taking the concept of a ryokan, the company has renovated traditional machiya town houses, built more than 110 years ago, and created a “street” inside the hotel. Walking from the reception building
It’s like staying in a miniature geisha town. And given Kyoto has been friendly enough to ban tourists from the geisha district, we need all the help we can get with imagining it.
Each room is a separate house with a downstairs and an upstairs — with different lounge styles from comfy sofas to traditional tatami mats.
My room had a gorgeous sunken bed on the first floor with a large window highlighting the semi-open air bath. This is MY FAVOURITE KIND OF BATH as I love to control my body temperature. It was so relaxing to soak in this private space, breathing in the fresh air. Kyoto air tastes so different to Tokyo.
The upstairs was a lovely tatami mat room with a low table and a fridge stocked with craft beer, sake and tea (good job!)
That’s the key thing about Nazuna — it smartly builds collaborations with artisans and artists. There’s a mini gallery at the entrance where it’s holding “Find My Favorite Japan: Curated Japanese Design Pop-Up Exhibition” showcasing artworks and crafts. There are incredible flower vases made from woven hats and some amazingly kitsch colourful Hokkaido bears that I very nearly bought (because who doesn’t need a kitsch colourful bear?!)
So many visitors to Japan I speak with are looking for traditional crafts or modern takes on them, searching for unique products that capture the culture and creativity of a place.
I really hope Nazuna’s approach catches on at more hotels and that they make genuine collaborations and connections (rather than some of the rather generic sweets I’ve seen elsewhere).
For a full lowdown, read this excellent write-up in Tokyo Weekender.
And now…. FOOD!
I ate the Oita wagyu (domestic beef) course at Nazuna’s in-house restaurant. However, I do recommend getting out an exploring the city’s food scene.
What I ate on that trip to Kyoto:
Kinugawa — hidden on the top floor of a supermarket, this place is the most unlikely setting for delicious lunchsets. The tempura and miso soup were incredible.
Agiyao — warning up front: his place is priced for US tourists as my companion and I were shocked at the price. It’s very oshare (fashionable) but the fish cooking is excellent. Japanese-style upstairs, European-style downstairs (bookings needed and can be done online). Go if someone else is paying haha!
Spice Curry Mujara — for something not Japanese but delicious and right close to Nazuna, this is your place! The pork and vegetable curries are excellent, and the owner laid-back and friendly.
Coffee:
Common will always be my favourite. The other day I went in while feeling sad and tired, and one sip brought me out of my head and into the present moment. It’s the delicious.
School Bus Coffee Bakers has a decent bakery and great tables with wifi etc if you need to get work done.
My favourite new discovery is Okaffe Roasting Park has lovely wooden decking and does a smooth cafe latte with pleasing cakes. Enjoy in the sun!
Imaya is a delightful Italian cafe. Highly recommend.
Hoo is a little too rustic — the walls leave dust and rubble on your clothes — but it’s OK for a quick stop (I thought the custard doughnut was overrated).